Kyoto, Japan: Temples and Geisha

Kyoto is a city rich with history, and temples. I would recommend at least two full days to really see Kyoto, if not more. I had about one and a half. Not quite enough to do everything on the itinerary, but still an amazing time.

For some information on transportation I recommend reading my Japan transportation post, here. Buses seemed the best way to go, I thought. And for a Kyoto hotel recommendation, check the Japan accommodation post, here.

While I wanted to visit the Bamboo Forest, and spend more time wandering Gion I spent most of my time visiting the amazing temples of Kyoto. There are many, and then some more. These seem to be the most popular sites to visit.

Kinkaku-ji  (The Golden Pavilion) - 400 Yen - Open 9 am to 5 pm 

It's not hard to imagine the basis for this temple's name - the top two floors are covered in gold leaf. This temple was originally built as a retirement villa (retirement? yes!) for Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, but after his death in 1408 it became a Zen temple of the Rinzai

The structure has been burned down three times, and been rebuilt three times, most recently in 1955 after a fanatical monk set it ablaze. Not very Zen of him. After viewing the temple follow the path around behind it and to the temple gardens. Along the path you'll find a set of stones with a small bowl in the middle. Toss coins at the stones for luck and extra luck I suppose if you can get it in the bowl. You can also purchase prayer candles to light and other souvenirs. Make sure you get your temple book signed (between 300 and 500 Yen to be signed at any temple, while the books range from 1,000-2,000 Yen).  

Ginkaku-ji (The Silver Pavilion) - 500 Yen - Open 8:30 am to 5 pm (9-4:30 Dec-Feb)

In 1482, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, built the Silver Pavilion as his retirement villa, modeling it after his grandfather's Golden Pavilion. (Yoshimitsu, Yoshimasa, not the same name...I know because I read it 4 or 5 times confused). When he died in 1490, this villa was made into a Zen Temple. Despite its name, this temple is not the least bit silver. While it is beautiful, it's just brown. However, they do say when the building was still covered in a black lacquer that the moon's reflection made the temple appear silver. 

Following along the temple's path you'll begin wandering through the gardens. The first thing you'll notice is the sand garden known as the Sea of Silver Sand. And if you're more observant than I am you'll notice the giant cone of sand called the Moon Viewing Platform (I couldn't recall seeing this but inadvertently caught it in a picture just the same). I can't find concrete reason for its existence other than perhaps its likeness to Mt. Fuji.

Sea of Silver Sand, and the Moon Viewing Platform to the far right

Continue on the path through the Moss Garden and up the side of the hill. Quite a few stairs, but worth the little climb. The path at the top overlooks the temple and Kyoto. From there you can also look to a hillside on the right with a red flag marking a Chinese parasol tree. It is the descendant of a tree exposed to radiation during the bombing of Hiroshima.

And don't forget your temple book!

Heian Shrine - Free, 600 Yen for Gardens - 6 am to 5: 30 pm, Gardens 8:30 am to 5 pm

The Heian Shrine may not be as old as the others, built in 1895, but it is just as beautiful. It was built on the 100th anniversary of the foundation of the capital in Kyoto (Kyoto used to be called Heian). Start out on the street and admire the giant torri gate that spans the roadway.

Inside, the main temple grounds are spacious. Take a look around this area for free, then pay the 600 Yen to enter the Garden. I imagine it's magnificent when the cherry trees are in bloom, but the gardens are amazing any day. With streams and ponds scattered throughout, the walk is a nice, relaxing distraction from the bustle of the city. A long bridge spans a large pond where you can grab some bread to feed the ducks and fish. Just drop in 100 Yen.

Get the temple book signed!

Kiyomizu-dera (The Water Temple) - 300 Yen - 6 am to 5 pm

Give yourself plenty of time for this temple. There's lot of paths and hiking, and it's beautifully nestled against the bottom of the mountain. The temple was also added to the UNESCO world heritage site list. Plus there are a few neat things to do around this temple, in addition to getting the temple book signed!

Behind the main hall look for Jishu Shrine, which is dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking. In front of the shrine are two stones about 18 meters apart. If you can find your way from one stone to the other with your eyes closed you will have luck in finding love. Or you can have someone guide you between the stones with your eyes closed, but that means you may need an intermediary in your love life as well. When I thought about this for a second and realized 18 meters is about 54 feet and I started to wonder if any of this would be a very good idea. Then I looked up pictures (because I did not have time to look for this when I was there) and it looks like one of the stones is about five feet in front of a flight of stairs. And now I'm sure it's not a good idea. Risk the intermediary in your love life.

Otawa Watefall

After securing your future love, or falling down a flight of stairs, find the Otowa Waterfall.This is much easier. Just take one of the cups on the long pole and hold it under one of the three streams coming from the waterfall. You can then either drink the water or pour it over your hands for fortune in love, longevity, or success. I don't know which is which. But it's greedy to drink from all three, so pick two and take your chances.

Temple book

Several buildings also sit at the temple's entrance, one being Zuigudo Hall, dedicated to the mother of Buddha. You can pay to wander around the pitch black basement (cool?) that symbolizes a mother's womb (not so cool?). Various pagodas also stand around Kiyomizu-dera.

Save time before or after visiting the temple to spend some time on the street leading up to the temple stairs, the Higashiyama District. Lots of stores and places to eat. It is a bit of a hike up through this district and to the temple, as well as within the temple.  

Gion District

If you want to try and spy a Geisha you'll want to spend your evening in the Gion district around the teahouses. You may see a Geisha or a Maiko (Geisha apprentice) on her way to a gathering. Pay attention though, it was just a quick flash when we  may or may not have seen a Maiko escorting someone to a nearby teahouse or restaurant. 

If you don't care about the Geishas, Gion is still a beautiful district with both a new and old feel. Lots of places to eat, several with decks overlooking the city's wide river.

There is so much to be done and seen in Kyoto. The more time you allot yourself the better. For a guide to more temples in the area I recommend checking the website Japan-Guide. They have easy to read, precise information that I've found very helpful.