Pagosa Springs, Colorado

Pagosa Springs is a beautiful, quaint town seated at the base of the San Juan Mountains and just west of the Continental Divide. With stunning views of the Rockies and the San Juan River running through the heart of the town, Pagosa offers the best of Colorado.

Outdoors:

Treasure Falls

Let's start with the mountains. Just thirty minutes through the San Juan National Forest is Wolf Creek Pass and Wolf Creek Ski Area. We took a drive up US 160 to the ski area, but didn't do any skiing. The trip was still well worth it. Just before heading up the mountains is Treasure Falls, easily seen from 160. It was a stunning and unexpected view to see it completely frozen. If you're looking for ice climbing (which assumes you know what you're doing), Treasure Falls might be of interest. Across the street is the West Fork Trail, where we did some cross country skiing later in the week. If you find yourself on that trail, keep in mind it starts off through private property so be respectful.

With many of the Colorado passes you'll need to make they're open for driving in the winter. Even if they are open, be aware that many of the pull offs aren't. You can still pull off the road in a lot of places, just be extra careful. You really don't need to know where you're going to find amazing views. Just drive around and see what you find.

Along with the ski area, there are plenty of places to cross country ski or snowmobile - and plenty more places to rent equipment. Snowmobile rentals are expensive, and we didn't end up renting any. For more information on tours check with Wolfcreek Snow Mobile Tours or Third Generation Outfitters. If you're looking for ski or snowboard rentals head to Summit Ski and Sports. Very friendly people, good prices, wonderful shop for your winter clothing and rental needs. I probably went to the store five or six times throughout my trip.

Skiing West Fork Trail

We did rent skis and go cross country skiing. My first time ever. It was a lot of fun, but also pretty tiring. It's a lot of feet shuffling and you can actually work up a pretty good sweat. For some beginners practice we headed to the Pagosa Springs Golf Club where trails are groomed for skiing. Later in the day we hit West Fork which was a beautifully groomed trail through the woods...and actually easier to ski. You can find a list of trails and some information about each here.

If you're in Pagosa in the summer I can only imagine how beautiful a horseback ride or bike ride would be. Your tour options and company options are varied, so shop around and find your preference. In the summer you also have the added fun that the San Juan River brings - like tubing and kayaking.

The way to spend your vacation in Pagosa is outside, and the ways to spend that time are endless and varied depending on the season. You'll definitely have to do a little of your own research before heading out to see what's available for your time of year and interests.

Hot Springs/Spas:

The Great Pagosa Hot Springs

After a long day of hiking or skiing I am convinced there is nothing better than a soak in the famous hot springs of Pagosa. The Great Pagosa Hot Springs is located about in the parking lot of the The Springs Spa. Water directly from this spring reaches 145 degrees F. The waters are said to be healing waters due to their high mineral content, which subsequently also makes them smell like rotten eggs (sulfer). Three surrounding spas tap into the underground aquifer that feeds the Hot Springs. They use this water to fill their soaking pools and are then able to have better control over the temperature.

The Springs and the San Juan River

The Springs Resort and Spa sits on the San Juan River and directly beside the Hot Springs. They have 23 outdoor pools ranging in temperature from 83 degrees to 114 degrees. Each pool has its own little name and a placard displaying the temperature. We bounced around from pool to pool - if you're doing this at night like we did bring some flip flops. The ground gets unbearably cold between pools. The Golden Pond in the middle of the property features a submerged boardwalk to the pool The Cliffs. While soaking in the large pool, Clouds in my Coffee, we even watched two raccoon walk up from the river and fish for goldfish out of the Golden Pond. If you're feeling very brave visit the Lobster Pot, 114 degrees. Two pools, Waterfall and Serendipity, feature waterfalls (Serendipity even has a bench behind the waterfall). For a slight additional cost you gain access to the 5 adult only pools.

Towels can be rented and lockers are available. The locker room features showers and even a bathing suit dryer (nice touch!). With renting the towels and lockers it was around $52 for two people. Full pricing information here.

From The Overlook's Site

The Overlook is a spa across the street from the San Juan River, but still tapping into the same healing waters of the hot spring. Much smaller (in size but certainly not quality), this spa features three rooftop pools and five indoor pools. I was a little hesitant about being inside and missing the scenery, but the inside of the Overlook is elegant and beautiful, creating a wonderfully relaxing atmosphere. The staff was amazing, always checking to see if we needed temperatures adjusted, a drink, or anything else. The indoor pools are unique - one features two lounge-chair type seats to lay back on, and a cold pool sits between two of the other tubs (hot to cold is supposed to be good for circulation). The spa also has a private tub room and massage rooms.

The locker rooms are even beautiful at the Overlook, and also include showers. Towels are available for rent as are lockers. The cost is just $10 a person (plus towel/locker), and we picked up a 2 for $18 coupon at Summit. Full pricing information here.

The third spa is Healing Waters Resort and Spa, but I didn't visit so I can't say much about the facility. All 3 spas are open to the public. My Hot Springs advice is to bring water (or buy it as the spa...The Overlook and The Springs also serve alcohol) and flip flops and if it's the middle of the winter don't hold your towel close to you as you walk between pools - you'll get it wet and it will freeze. Better yet, bring a couple of towels with you. Lastly don't wear silver jewelry, the minerals will turn it black. I think you can polish it back, but why risk it. Maybe just take off all your jewelry to be safe.

Food, Food, Food
Food is expensive...but yummy! There's definitely a southwest flair to the food, including plenty of spice. Chorizo is a staple like ketchup as far as I can tell...and it's spicy. Also beware hatch chile if you're not a big fan of the spice. Both are yummy though, so maybe grab a loaf of bread and glass of milk and try them anyway.

Bear Creek Saloon

A small, local spot for some good food is Kip's Grill. Tacos, burritos, and burgers. Elk burgers. Try the elk, it's nothing like beef...or chicken. There isn't a whole lot of seating, so be ready to wait or get there early. Great atmosphere though, just a bunch of people having fun. For a good breakfast (specifically a burrito)  head to Pagosa Baking Company or Higher Grounds Coffee. If you're wanting to take in some sports, play pool, and have a good supper head to Bear Creek Saloon. Delicious!




Shopping Time
Downtown Pagosa features some small boutique and souvenir shops that sort of open when they feel like it and close around 5 or 6:00. Further up the road is The Rainbow Gift Shop. Primarily a rock shop, it also features American Indian art and jewelry and touristy bits like t-shirts and magnets. If you want a gift from Colorado that is not made in China, visit the Made in Colorado Shoppe. Very few items in the store are from out-of-state, and those that are are marked. This store has a wonderful selection of jewelry, pottery, candles, and cards as well as t-shirts and other unique gifts. I enjoyed what both of these stores had to offer, and found employees at both to be very friendly.

I think I've about covered what I did in Pagosa Springs, but there's no way to cover all the possibilities. There are an endless array of ways to keep busy and beautiful sights to see. For some general Colorado tips check out an earlier posted blog here.